So, What Is the New Loewe?

A black leather jacket. A suede blazer. Cargo trousers. A little dress.

At first glance, the Spring/Summer 2027 collection sounds like a wardrobe you already know. Then Loewe adds a glossy collar, an unexpected drape, a vivid flash of colour or a shoe that changes the mood.

That’s where the new Loewe is beginning to take shape.

Familiar clothes, slightly undone

This is Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez’s third collection for the house. The pieces feel less like a series of individual fashion-week surprises and more like an attempt to build a wardrobe: outerwear, tailoring, easy dresses and relaxed separates, all with a twist.

The black leather jacket and bright orange skirt are a perfect example. The clothes are familiar; the proportions, colour and playful trim stop them from feeling ordinary. Elsewhere, a suede blazer brings polish, while utility shapes are softened with draping and gathered fabric.

Nothing needs to shout to get your attention. Often, it’s one detail: a lacquered collar, a surprising hem, a flash of red or a bag tucked under the arm.

The detail does the talking

The collection’s appeal is in that push and pull. There’s ease, but rarely plainness. A fluid dress might have an unexpected cut-out. A sporty silhouette gets painterly colour or intricate beading. A practical jacket becomes the most interesting thing in the look because of its shine, shape or finish.

Loewe’s show notes describe the collection as familiar American archetypes “softened and twisted”, with modern colour meeting Baroque flourishes. You can see that in the mix: casual outerwear and relaxed trousers alongside sweeping drapes, vivid colour and a little drama.

The men are part of the picture

The men’s looks make the wardrobe feel more complete. A simple black coat becomes a moment with a glossy blue collar and matching glasses; other looks play with easy tailoring and colour. The point isn’t to make everyone dress alike. It’s that the same ideas—ease, texture and one memorable detail—run through the whole collection.

So, what is the new Loewe? Not one defining shape, exactly. More a way of getting dressed: start with something familiar, then give it a detail that makes it yours.

A good jacket helps. A very good collar doesn’t hurt.

Runway images: Courtesy of Loewe.